We Review: The Duchy Chef

From London’s finest kitchens to private tables across Cornwall and Devon, Craig Barrett of Duchy Chef brings fine dining flair to every occasion. Rooted in seasonal local produce and shaped by years of top-tier experience, his bespoke menus turn intimate gatherings into unforgettable experiences, and this time Cornish Secrets editor Rebecca Moore put his cooking to the test. 

With a career shaped in some of London’s most prestigious kitchens, Craig Barrett – aka the Duchy Chef – brings a wealth of fine dining experience to the private table. Having spent a decade in the capital, his journey includes roles at renowned establishments such as The Lanesborough and The Pelham Hotel, rising through the ranks, he went on to lead as Head Chef at Lightship Ten in St Katharine Docks, before stepping into a corporate fine dining role.

 A move to Kent marked a shift towards family life, where he continued to refine his craft as Head Chef at a large wedding and events venue. As for many chefs, Cornwall eventually called, and it was here – working at The Lugger Hotel in Portloe and The Nare – that the foundations of Duchy Chef were laid, growing steadily into a full-time private dining venture.

Today, eight years on, covering Cornwall and Devon, Craig is driven by a desire to create truly personal dining experiences. His passion lies in designing menus that reflect not only the best seasonal produce from local suppliers, think vibrant spring asparagus, wild garlic, and tender lamb, but also the unique energy of each gathering. For him, cooking is about more than food; it’s about creating moments. As he puts it, the most rewarding sound is silence, the quiet appreciation of guests completely immersed in what’s on the plate. Although as an evening at Cornish Secrets HQ, quietness was few and far between as we chatted through the delights on the plate.

Canapés were served, we began with deliciously salty and succulent scorched padron peppers and miniature Cornish cheese tarts made with 21-month aged Davidstow cheddar and infused with Rattler cider. The champagne was poured and the indulgence had officially started.

Taking our seats around the table Craig presented his starter; his take on the iconic ‘Bang Bang Chicken’ – while the chicken was brined, cooked and served cold, it was married with peanut emulsion, baby coriander, kimchi, charred little gem and the star of the show candied chilli. A plate of juxtaposing flavours, the punchiness of heat with the creamy chicken and peanut was sensational. The chillies weren’t for the faint hearted but as a lover of asian flavours, I devoured my plate. 

The main course allowed fish to take centre stage, and I wasn’t upset about it. Sourced from Celtic Fish and Game, monkfish, sea bass, and a hand-dived scallop – the biggest I’ve seen – filled the plate. The fruit of the sea was served with a creative mix; pickled courgette and cucumber, saffron and crab-cooked potatoes, sea greens, saffron aioli and a good lashing of bouillabaisse velouté. It felt hearty, the fish was generous and fresh, and the vegetables were well matched. 

Both the starter and main course were suitable for our dairy-free diners, which allowed us all to discuss the food without eating separate dishes. Although, for the final course we had two options. My last dessert on earth would be a crème brûlée, so when this was printed on the menu I was smug. Craig was passionate about his third course, doing it a little differently, you won’t find this crème brûlée hidden in a ramekin, Craig’s perfected his recipe so it stands proud, and the result was fabulous. Served with macerated strawberries, stem ginger crumb and red vein sorrel it was a masterpiece both on the eyes and the palette. The dairy-free option was a rich, indulgent chocolate tart with a refreshing sorbet. 

Craig’s clearly a powerhouse in the kitchen, and his passion for good food is as clear as our polished plates. Covering both Cornwall and Devon, he’s a true asset to the south west’s culinary offering.

 

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We’ve awarded private chef service the Duchy Chef a Golden Lobster seal of approval and personally recommend using his service when in Cornwall.

We had the pleasure of being hosted by Craig Barrett for dinner on 23 March 2026.