We Review: Sabzi

Having recently celebrated five years in business, and now covering four Cornish locations, it felt about time Cornish Secrets editor Rebecca Moore checked the delicious deli everyone’s talking about, Sabzi, for herself…

As a location it may be abundant in fresh local produce, stunning sea views, and charming buildings, but Cornwall’s food scene isn’t easy to crack, particularly when it comes to opening a new style of restaurant. Part of Cornwall’s appeal to many chefs is the direct access to the very best ingredients and wonderfully talented artisans, however it’s also hugely dominated by the seasons making hospitality somewhat challenging. Seemingly, Sabzi which opened its doors in Truro in 2019, has not only overturned these challenges but thrived, launching in three further locations across five years: Falmouth, Padstow and Nansledan, near Newquay.

But what makes Sabzi different? Sabzi’s founder Kate Attlee, was born and raised in Cornwall, but with an Iranian father and British mother, she’s been fortunate enough to be surrounded by international flavours her whole life. And you’ll see plenty of Iranian and Middle Eastern cooking on her daily-changing menu, with four or five combinations which form nourishing salads to be eaten in or taken away with you. All dishes are prepared on site, to Sabzi’s own recipes using sustainable ingredients. While the sizes of all the sites vary, they all feature a well-stocked deli where you can take the Sabzi magic home, too. If it’s a sit down meal you’re after, Falmouth and Nansledan are best set up for this.

It’s the newest location where I headed to see first-hand what all the fuss is about. The largest of the four, Nansledan – just outside of Newquay – is bustling with mothers and their babies, colleagues enjoying work meetings over lunch, four-legged friends and their respective owners grabbing a takeaway, friends catching up over coffee,  and yet Sabzi feels somewhat of a sanctuary. While the calming effects of Sabzi’s branding plays a part – think earthy greens, plenty of white space and luscious foliage – the food is the perfect balance of wholesome yet hearty.

The attentive manager Emma suggested I go for the Ultimate Sabzi Box, which is a lunch box with a ladle of Sabzi’s signature red lentil, tomato, and coconut dahl with an Iranian style mint yoghurt, which fast became my favourite spoonfull. Unlike the name suggest, when eating in, this is served in a shallow bowl, and is a delightful array of colours and textures. My bowl was stacked with oregano roasted local potatoes; a parsnip, carrot and apple slaw; lemon roasted Cornish hispi, British peas and Cornish kale with sweet roasted onions, butter beans and fresh herb chutney with feta and  bulgar wheat with Iranian pickles, toasted seeds, baby spinach with whipped tahini. It’s certainly a mouthful, and there are lots of flavours packed in. While I found it a wonderful balance, bursting with flavour, if you’re particular about your food, Sabzi probably isn’t for you as dishes can’t be adapted with everything made fresh that morning.

While savoury dishes certainly dominate here, save room for something sweet. All homemade by Sabzi, you’ll find creative options such as its cinnamon and tahini bun, raw peanut butter cup. I opted for more of a classic, a white chocolate and macadamia blondie which was exceptional.

Having visited with a baby, we also have to commend this branch on its baby-friendly nature too. The staff are more than happy to fetch a highchair and are welcoming of pushchairs and baby paraphernalia

Cornwall is so lucky to have not one but four Sabzi delis. It’s so refreshing to have something out-of-the-ordinary for breakfast or lunch, which leaves you feeling full up with plenty of goodness, comes in at a fair price, and takes your tastebuds on a flavoursome journey to Iran and the Middle East, while still celebrating its Cornish roots. We’ll certainly be back.

sabzideli.co.uk