The Tartan Fox, Newquay

The Cornish Secrets team recently had the privilege of dining at The Tartan Fox, the latest venture by acclaimed Chef Adam Handling MBE, which opened its doors on 4th June 2024. Nestled in the picturesque countryside between Newquay and Truro, this pub is a stunning addition to Cornwall’s culinary scene. Adam Handling’s commitment to sustainability and his visionary approach to modern British cuisine shine brightly here, much like in his other renowned establishments, including Ugly Butterfly in St. Ives and The Loch & the Tyne in Old Windsor.

From arrival, the team had no doubt they were in for a truly outstanding dining experience. The pub, located in a 400-year-old Grade II listed building, offers a unique blend of historic charm and contemporary luxury. Its name is a nod to Adam’s Scottish roots, and the design thoughtfully integrates the natural surroundings, emphasizing the group’s dedication to sustainability.

As we entered, the staff immediately greeted us. This warm welcome was complimented by the interiors of the building, reflecting the pub’s ethos with earthy tones and natural materials, creating a warm and inviting atmosphere that feels like a true escape in the heart of the Cornish countryside. The pleasant aroma inside The Tartan Fox could not go without mention, further building on the vibe of the pub.

The incredibly attentive waiter Joash handled our table for the evening, and provided outstanding service. My colleague had forgotten their glasses, and we were sharing to read the menu, Joash noticed and offered complimentary reading glasses!

As expected, we took a glance at the menu to see that it is nothing short of exceptional, drawing inspiration from Adam’s award-winning sister pub, The Loch & the Tyne. It offers a refined take on classic pub fare, showcasing the best of Cornish produce with a touch of Scottish influence. Highlights include smaller dishes like the ‘Beef tartare, St. Ewe yolk, crispy potato’ and the signature ‘Mother’ dish, alongside larger offerings such as ‘Roast rump of lamb, peas, mint, asparagus’ and ‘Hake, white beans, chicken butter sauce.’ The grill section features a selection of dry-aged steaks and a ‘Whole grilled lobster,’ each dish reflecting Adam’s commitment to sustainable, local luxury.

Kicking off the four course meal, for our “snacks” we chose the cheese doughnuts and the Black pudding bon bon’s. Both were absolutely delicious, the sweetness of the doughnuts unexpectedly complimented the gooey speciality cheese centre whilst a taste of Scotland was experienced through the crispy layer of breadcrumbs that provided the perfect crunch to the black pudding.

The starters were just as delicious – a fabulously presented smoked English burrata served with colourful heritage tomatoes and a Haggis Scotch egg paired with the perfect tangy brown sauce to compliment it.

The influence of chef Adam Handling’s Scottish background continued as we were served our mains. The chicken schnitzel with girolles and a truffle emulsion was full of flavour and the roasted cauliflower was a delightful blend of simplicity and luxury.

Desserts are equally impressive, with options like a ‘ Chocolate pudding with sour cherries’. The playful Deep-fried Mars bar served with frozen honeycomb pays homage to Adam’s heritage. This dessert was pleasantly surprising, a luxurious twist on the chip shop snack. A standout is the ‘King’s Trifle,’ originally created for HRH King Charles III’s Coronation. It truly lives up to its grand name featuring Engish berries, ginger, and is garnished with meadowsweet.

The Tartan Fox is a must-visit for anyone in Cornwall. Adam Handling’s dedication to zero-waste cooking, coupled with his ability to elevate local ingredients to new heights, makes this pub an outstanding destination. Whether you’re a fan of his previous work or new to his cuisine, you’ll find The Tartan Fox to be a perfect blend of history, sustainability, and modern culinary excellence.

tartanfoxpub.co.uk